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dave defehr
Posted: Dec 03, 2012 09:30 PM
leaking fluid valve
I have a leaking B side fluid valve on my Fusion AP gun. Is it as simple to just change it out and keep going?
Mark Mouton
Posted: Dec 03, 2012 09:54 PM
1
dave defehr
Posted: Dec 04, 2012 01:19 AM
thanks
David Lamb
Posted: Dec 06, 2012 05:04 PM
Don't throw the old manual valve away as you are able to rebuild it very affordably with a 246-354 oring and a 118-466 split ring. Just remember that seat is left hand thread.
dave defehr
Posted: Dec 08, 2012 01:52 AM
Really! I didn't think it was rebuildable as my supplier told me they don't have o rings, they just seat themselves and that is worn out and that is why it's leaking. So thanks alot for the info as I will try and rebuild it.
dave defehr
Posted: Jan 22, 2013 12:10 AM
Am I correct in saying the teflon O ring in the fluid valve does in fact have a split in it? If so, how does it not leak?
Linerman
Posted: Jan 22, 2013 06:47 PM
You have the split teflon o ring and then a "regular" o ring in combination with that. Make sure the "regular" o ring is a Viton Extreme with a 90 durometer, otherwise you'll keep having issues. Me personally I just dumped them plugged the holes where they go and installed some quick valves on the hoses.
dave defehr
Posted: Jan 22, 2013 06:55 PM
Thanks for your reply. I've ordered the O rings from Graco, but I'm not sure what you mean by plugging the holes, can you explain in more detail, thanks.
Linerman
Posted: Jan 22, 2013 07:59 PM
The threaded ports for the fluid valves, I just screwed a plug in there like the ones on the sides of the fluid manifold. Then installing the quick valves, like the ones you see on the glascraft guns, on the hose.
dave defehr
Posted: Jan 23, 2013 01:46 AM
So you took out the
dave defehr
Posted: Jan 23, 2013 01:54 AM
Oops on that last reply. You took out the existing fluid valves and replaced them with ball type valves? Do you have any issues with them? Do they work the same way? Interesting!
Linerman
Posted: Jan 23, 2013 05:46 PM
That is correct, I have it where the ball valves are set up similarly to the problers. I've been using the same ball valves for the last 10+ years or so. They only cost about $80/piece too.

I've got a few of the original fusion valves laying around. I kept having problems with them leaking just as you and since there is no part number for neither o ring(at least at the time) I ended up buying new ones only too start having issues again. Since I still had my P1 on hand I just used the ball valves on that.

Most of the issues I believe are due to the orings that graco is supplying.
dave defehr
Posted: Jan 23, 2013 07:51 PM
Thanks SprayPro. Forgive me for asking so many questions, but what machine are you running with those valves? Do you turn the valves from recirc mode to spray mode the same as the other valves? The valves you have now don't pop up as you turn them right? Is it hard to fit those other valves? I'm always scared to screw with what works (sometimes).

Thanks again.
Linerman
Posted: Jan 23, 2013 09:25 PM
No problem. I'm running the Reactor EXP-1. I think I might be confusing you, perhaps I could send you some pics?
dave defehr
Posted: Jan 23, 2013 09:57 PM
I'd love to see some pics and wish I had an EXP1. How do you like it?
Linerman
Posted: Jan 24, 2013 09:32 PM
How about you give me your e-mail, I can't send pics through the site.
dave defehr
Posted: Jan 24, 2013 10:36 PM
Thanks Spray Pro, Email is ldefehr1@telus.net The first letter is a lower case L.

Thanks
Linerman
Posted: Jan 26, 2013 11:59 AM
Indyguy, I sent you an email containing pics. I love the Exp1, however, it does lack in output so you are limited to certain mix chambers. I had to work out some bugs in the machine since it was purchased used. So I have a love/hate feeling for it.
Professor Foamâ„¢
Posted: Aug 25, 2013 01:41 PM
Hi Guys,

I sell a repair kit for the fluid valve and it contains 6 sets of o rings to repair it. You can contact me at professorfoam@gmail.com or on ebay as user Professor_Foam.

Thanks

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