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Dave Strnad
Posted: May 11, 2006 09:06 PM
Binks 43 p
Does anyone know much about the binks 43p plural gun. I know they are still in production and parts are availble, but I haven't found much on the web about them. Would this be a good gun for residential low desinty .5 lb wall foam? I have only found one document, and that suggests that it is one on the best, but I am assuming that it is an older model that has been around for awhile. Any thoughts would be apretiated, I have 2 and need to decide to order parts or buy new guns. It would be alot cheaper to buy parts, but I don't want to waste $200 only to find out they don't work well.
Gerry Wagoner
Posted: May 11, 2006 11:58 PM
Binks has all but faded from the scene in SPF.

I would advise putting that $200 towards a gun that uses the latest technology and will have plenty of parts available. Foaming is tough enough without adding the burden of outdated equipment to it. The Fusion gun and the P2 are performing very well in the field, and will be around for a long time.

Dave Strnad
Posted: May 12, 2006 06:47 AM
Thanks for the reply, I am new to the business and just trying to get everything put together. I'm almost there just the gun is left to buy. I was leaning towards the P2 when I was in a pawn shop and picked up two 43p for $5 a piece. At first I was geeked, I checked with binks and the gun is still being manufactured, all parts are availible. Then when I started searching online I found nothing about the 43P, the only document I found said the 43p was the best and the gx-7 was number two. There was no date on it but I would have to guess that it is pretty old because there was no mention of the newer guns.
Trey Gibson
Posted: May 12, 2006 08:19 AM
The gun is definitely something I wouldn't skimp on. If you do you will be kicking yourself in the ass everytime it clogs up or foams over which will probobly be often. We started off with a P2 but had so much trouble with it, having to take it apart sometimes twice a day. We now have a two gun GAP Pro rotation on our rig and it works great. Those things will go a few weeks with out being torn down but they are easier to foam over than the P2.
Dave Strnad
Posted: May 13, 2006 08:23 AM
Would you say the biggest difference in the guns are things like foaming over and clogging up, or is there a difference in getting a nice foam mix/finish/etc. My biggest concern as a novice is that something might not be right as far as ratio or mixing giving me a poor quality foam. I want to elimnate as much unknow as I can. I have built my own system, so I know it inside and out but there is still some unknow about the business and technique. It is interesting that everyone has there own favorite gun, foam, etc. So I think there is going to be a little trial and error in finding my ideal setup. I would like to here from anyone that has ever used the 43P at this point I'm probally going to scrap it and go with something else, not sure what.
Posted: May 13, 2006 08:37 AM
Hi Dave,

I use a P2 gun and have no complaints. When I first got started, it seemed like I was cleaning the gun alot. I can only attribute it to human error, because now I go weeks if not a month before I have to clean the gun.

Posted: May 14, 2006 06:37 AM
dave,,im with the others,,
buy current equipment that is in the mainstay of the industry..
this will help reduce your learning curve, and you will be able to get service and advice easier.
i shoot with the air purge fusion,,,works well for me,,,i tear it down daily,,,no grease gumbies here,,,it takes 5 minutes to tear down clean and reassemble...a clean gun is a happy sprayer...
Posted: May 14, 2006 06:40 AM
what does the term "foaming over" mean regarding gun performance?
Posted: May 14, 2006 10:26 AM
Foaming over is one of your biggest possible problems, it makes downtime. It is when some "A" component and some "B" component mix in the gun, but not in the mixing chamber and you fill the gun with foam. Only 1 drop af A mixed with one drop of B will make 30-130 drops of foam! Best case, you have a spare gun, put it on and get back to work, you're only down 5 minutes. Worst case, you ran out of one material, sent an air bubble all the way to the gun, and the side with material @ 1200 PSI shot down the side with no material foaming up the gun and the whip hose. If you don't have a spare whip hose and you need to get one overnight, you will be out $600 plus a day or so of down time. Plus you have to soak the gun in cleaner to clean all of the cured foam. I have a small ultrasonic, heated cleaner that helps speed and ease the cleaning of the gun.

Trey Gibson
Posted: May 14, 2006 11:02 AM
Do you put your cleaning chemical (dynasolve of whatever) in that ultra sonic cleaner or just water? Will it get hardened iso off?
Posted: Aug 17, 2010 06:07 PM
Did millions of square feet of SPF Roofing with the 43P gun. It is the most simple and easy to maintain gun ever made. I went years without buying any gun parts. We sprayed 80 pounds a minute with it. The correct solvent is Ether EP.
Posted: Aug 17, 2010 11:45 PM
Don't you mean 8 lbs a minute? What kind of proportioner was putting out 80 lbs a minute years ago?

Benjamin Skoog
Posted: Aug 27, 2010 06:10 PM
I would definitely go with a Fusion AP
I have used
Fusion AP- If you want a gun you can take apart with a 5/16" nut driver and easiest to clean buy this one. just dont scratch the sidewalls of the fluid section in the gun head. biggest mixing chamber 05 $1800
Fusion CS- Neat concept but is partially plastic, you need to buy clearshot cartridges $11 ea, and 03 is biggest tip
Gap Pro- POS in my opinion mixing chamber is held in by a small stud that is easy to break if your gun crosses over. if your gun is crossed over unscrew the fluid section manifold and pull the trigger the mixing chamber will slide back and it will save a headache. imagine breaking that stud and not having an extra... ARGH!!
Probler P2- decent gun but you need like four allen keys a 1/2, 3/8, 11/16, 9/16 and snap ring pliers to take it apart completely. parts are really expensive. biggest mixing chamber 04 $2500
Daniel X
Posted: Sep 14, 2010 10:15 PM
Fusion is 10x easier to tear down than the P2.

I only tear the gun down completely when I notice I can't maintain a nice round pattern, and I know my screens are clean. Be careful not to scratch the polished surfaces of the side seals, or the mixing chamber and if the chamber feels to tight for your drill bit, soak it in solvent over night.

I use a nut driver and a flat head screw driver, and I put a dab of grease on my air cap before I start spraying.

I've never "foamed over" (I call it crossing over) my Fusion, because I keep an eye on my material, and you have to be stupid to keep triggering if you get a shot of straight chemical. The Fusion has excellent check valves, so you shouldn't be making foam inside your whip hose.
jeff henderson
Posted: Sep 15, 2010 09:54 AM
In that case, I am so stupid they should probably take away my license.

I budget for 6 hours emergency maintenance for every hour of productive spraying! (someone talked to me once about something called 'preventitive maintenance' or some such nonsense, sounded crazy to me).
Daniel X
Posted: Sep 15, 2010 07:29 PM
What are you getting at? Do you run your drums dry every chance you get?

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